All filters without an exception had passed of a visual soldering quality checking procedure, after that they are checks up using special CAN tester tool. Please believe, it not just a words, the filters not checked up are not sent.
Despite all checks, any small percentage of defects is possible certainly - you should understand what not all malfunctions can be defined at once, there is something is shown only in due using time. Practically all in this world is done by humans, they are not ideal by definition. Please remember: problems do not happen only at those who does nothing.
If the filter does not work:
1. If you have MB-CAN or USprog USB adapter, be good to check the firmware version in your filter. You can connect it to a filter via car OBD, or directly to filter pads (the connection description is in the end pages of instruction for MersCleaner) and see the firmware version of filter. Probably, it become outdated and the filter is need to update. All actual versions presented on the site page "Filters news".
2. Look carefully at the selected filter's connection picture and your EZS board! The EZS modules are very similar in most cases, but have the filter different connection.
3. For the filter 1815-12, -13, -14, 1815, 1816, 1615, 1616, 1715: Be convinced of availablility (or absence) of resistors-terminators on the filter board according to a connection picture for your EZS. The filter which has already stood in one type of the EZS (W164 as example), can't work in other type of the EZS (W166/W204/W221 as example) without "Unlocking" procedure — please read the news about filters and the end of MB-Cleaner instruction.
This concerns of filters removed from BMW and installed in Mercedes or Renault (or vice versa)! If the car(connection) type autodetection has been involved in the filter (has not been soldered any jumper for car type selection), before "go to sleep", the filter saves in it's memory the car type, type of place where it connected, and the speed of CAN bus. If at least one jumper has been soldered - the filter use the jumper settings only, without store anything in memory.
4. Be convinced of presence of a Power and Ground on corresponding connection padstacks of the filter.
5. If does not help previous - accurately warm up (reflow with hot air) ALL FILTER parts From BOTH SIDES with rosin (or acid-free flux, no more 220*С, overwise possible the damage of MCU's internal flash content!). At enough of rosin (flux) possible "microsnivels" after fans who like joyfully should leave to solder hissing and splashing extensively (overheated) flux with solder.
6. In the archive file with pictures of connecting the filter to the Mercedes EZS, there is a picture with the diagnostic parameters of the filter. Check the filter with the Magic Tools of electronics technician.
If it has not helped, welcome to mail us through the feedback form. Please specify all point to point (ALL POINTS are important!):
1: The exact description of a PROBLEM FOR EVERY FILTER - is URGENT. If you have a lot of non-working filters - problems have to be described for EVERY FILTER. Descriptions contains one idiotic phrase "have a Glitches" - will be ignored! Don't wait the help from us with such description.
2: Number of the order of this filter in our shop, or date of its purchase (for approximate definition of hardware modification and the firmware version of your filter).
3: Car Model and its year, for example: W212 '2010. Please don't write us its class and motor volume (for example E220), it has no relation to the filter installation!
4. The ACCURATE picture of your EZS board with the soldered filter (size is no more 300Kb!), the filter it is desirable close up and be better from both sides.
P. S. About the picture. Some of unreasonable people sending to us the our connection pictures got right from the archive. The request to such people: get a grasp of the text above, turn on your brain and think, what for we ask to send your picture?
If you need the help, please do the job for presenting the information described above, then we will try to help you in process of forces and possibilities.
About our OLD FILTERS:
For the filter 1815-12: First of all check the capacitors from corners of the filter is not torn off! Them tear off often when break off to one filter board from another, without looking what will do. The older and newer (1815-13, -14) filters are do not contain any capacitor in this place or have rotated 90* capacitor - it's normally!
If capacitor have torn off with it's soldering pads, be easy to solder it to the backside of filter board according the picture below.
Better to short pin 60 of MCU to GND, for better start of MCU after power up of filter.
